After 2 months of heavy work, this Brutishdog model is finally done. No modifications on the model itself, only a simple paint job fun.
Base paints: (GSI Mr. Color)Dark red - C68 Monza red 50% + C108 character red 50% and few drops of C13 neutral grey, C2 gross black
Beige(dark) - C51 flesh 90% + C107 character white 10% + few drops of C33 flat black
paint overs:Pink - C68 30% + C62 flat white 70% + few drops of C11 light grey
Beige - the darker beige color mix + 2 drops C4 yellow + a lot more of C107
This is to mimic pink spray over a red lead anti-rust paint like what people do to those comabt machines. To do this, I used salt weathering to 2-3 layers of paints. The third layer is just the paint mixes plus more white to highlight the front and top surfaces. As you can see, it gives a more realistic appearance and set up a good tone guiding all the other weathering works that followed.
I have done salt weathering a few years back on a 1/35 Dragon Kampftpanzer III Ausf. H, a gift from a friend. That was a total disaster since I used a wrong approach on the salt. I am not going to add a salt weathering tutorial here but I need to explain what was wrong.
As you all know, there are 2 ways to apply salt to the model surface:
1) mix salt with few drops of water and dip the paste onto the area;
2) spray or dip water onto the area and sprinkle salt over it.
The first way gives a larger weathering area and you can adjust it by spreading the paste with your brush to control the effect's randomness. Whereas the second one is less demanding but there is no guarantee on the amount of salt that can be successfully sticked to the area. You may need to do it several times to achieve a desirable effect. When I was doing the tank, I sprayed too much water on a second try and that dissolved the salt. I ignored that and waited until it dried up. I thought that would be "OK" since the salt crystals should be coming back and would gave the same effect to the spray - that was the silliest idea of the century. The salt crystals did come back but mold-like rings appeared around them. I sprayed paints as planned and when I washed off the salt, those mold-like rings was not washed away and was stuck between the paint layers. Damn it...
This time, I used both techniques and with 2 type of salts. Coarse salt was dipped onto the plain surfaces(the bigger spots) and regular table salt was sprinkled onto the corners which were dampened using a brush. Patience is the key.
After all spray works, I applied decals and then tried all the painting effects that I know.
Washing with Tamiya acrylic paint X-1 black and GSI Mr. Hobby Colour H37 wood brown.
Some parts with H344 rust(discontinued product).
Dry brushing (Winsor & Newton acrylic colors): pink, white
Rust effects:1) dry brushing with yellow, burnt seinna(on edges);
2) dipping with yellow orchre, orange and raw umber;
3) dry brushing with arcylic black.
Using an old toothbrush to to do a nice splattering of very dilute acrylic colour spray, a simple way to add muddy dirt to the down-pins on the shoes.
Other parts:
Brown: C41 red brwon + C33 flat black. Washing with X-1.
Silver: GSI Super Metallic Color SM04 super stainless over C2 gross black
For the galting guns on right arm, sprayed some flat black at the pipe tips. The cutter part was dry brushed with acrylic black.
Inner frame: C71 midnight blue + C33 flat black. Dry brushed with blue & grey arcylic colour mix. Dipped some X19 smoke onto the joints to make it looked like grease dirt.
Interior: C13 + C33
Pilot Fyanna: Hand painted. C47 clear red on the helmet glass.
For the scope lenses, I copied the treatment from the cover of
Degenki Hobby Speical 3D Works Votoms Models MOOK(2008):
1) painted the inner side of the scope cylinder black;
2) painted C138 clear green on the back side of the lens cover.
3) used B3 pencil to mark some scratches on the rail.
These photos are just snaps at my workshop. Maybe I take more photos and post here later...if I have time for this. Still busy on my freelance work this week and I hope to start building another model before christmas.
認得出這個的一定是香港人。舊款的山頂纜車我有幸坐過一次，以前做學生，去太平山頂已經當成是大旅行。纜車軌經過民居的部份，當時是沒有欄杆的，你大可以從旁邊的路拾級而上。
我最初也在懷疑地點或角度看上去有錯覺，但這裡肯定是現在金鐘力寶中心(當時未有)望向香港公園的那一個角落。
看看電車上那個巨大的「味之素」廣告…今天再看真的有點驚訝吧。 
這裡是元朗豐年路口，請看紅色計程車：美國精神USA~
這是元朗大馬路。
可能大家也留意到一種消失了的九巴巴士車型，是單層車。我以前是很喜歡坐這種車的，我是會花差不多兩個小時，坐這種車，53號線由元朗經屏山去荃灣，沿途欣賞青山公路風景。 
After 2 months of heavy work, this Brutishdog model is finally done. No modifications on the model itself, only a simple paint job fun.
These photos are just snaps at my workshop. Maybe I take more photos and post here later...if I have time for this. Still busy on my freelance work this week and I hope to start building another model before christmas.
I bought this kit about 3 weeks ago and spent 2 nights building it. It's good both in shape and in terms of its content, well, for a 2100 yen box which has re-cycled a lot of parts from the older HGUC Jegan kit released few months before.
The waist front armor is fused into one part. Emmm...we can't be so demanding for a 1/144 kit like this.
There is a good hint for the upcoming HGUC line-up: a AEUG/Titans style GMII beam gun is included in this Stark Jegan box. Will Bandai release HGUC Nemo(MSA-003) in the coming winter?
